Milk in Pizza Dough: What It Does and How to Use It Effectively
Milk isn’t a typical ingredient in pizza dough, but it can significantly influence the dough’s properties and the final product. In this article, we’ll examine how milk – both liquid and dried milk powder – affects pizza dough, and provide tips on how to use it effectively
Introduction: The Composition of Milk
Below is the general composition of liquid milk and dried milk powder. Note that the percentages do not add up to 100%, as the exact composition can vary based on the type of milk and the producer.
Liquid Milk
- Water: About 88%
- Lactose (also known as ‘milk sugar’): 5%
- Fat: 1-5%
- Proteins: 3%
- Vitamins and minerals: 1%
Dried Milk Powder
Dried milk powder is essentially “regular” milk that has undergone a drying process to remove the water, leaving only the milk solids – lactose, fat, proteins, and minerals.
Like regular milk, milk powder is considered a dairy product, because it contains these milk solids.
In theory and practice, milk powder can be mixed with water to create a liquid very similar to “regular” milk. For example, mixing about ⅓ cup (30 grams) of milk powder with 1 cup of water (approximately 240 grams/mL) will yield a result nearly identical to liquid milk.
Milk powder is available in different fat contents, including “whole milk” powder (made from milk with 3-4% fat) and non-fat or skim milk powder (made from milk with 0-1% fat).
Milk powder may or may not be heat-treated to neutralize the glutathione present in the whey protein, which acts as a dough softener (more on this later).
Whole Milk Powder Composition:
- Proteins: 25-27%
- Lactose: 36-38%
- Fat: 26-40%
- Ash (minerals): 5-7%
Non-fat/Skim Milk Powder Composition:
- Proteins: 34-37%
- Lactose: 49.5-52%
- Fat: 0.6-1.25%
- Ash (minerals): 8.2-8.6%
- Moisture: 3-4.5%
The Effects of Milk on Dough and the Final Product
Milk influences dough in several important ways:
- Gluten Strengthening: The calcium in milk helps strengthen gluten bonds, much like it does in water, causing them to “tighten.”
- Softer, More Tender Crumb: Milk contributes to a softer, more tender crumb and enhanced mouthfeel, mainly due to the casein protein and sugar it contains – both of which act as dough tenderizers.
- Added Fat: Depending on the fat content of the milk or milk powder, milk adds fat to the dough, contributing all the associated effects of fat on dough.
- Browning: The lactose and proteins in milk contribute to browning through the Maillard reaction.
- Flavor Enhancement: Milk imparts a mild, “milky” or dairy flavor to the final product.
- Acidity Buffer: Milk acts as an acidity buffer, helping to balance acidity during long fermentation and preventing the dough from becoming overly acidic.
- Gluten Weakening (in untreated milk): If the milk or milk powder has not been heat-treated, the glutathione in the milk will break down gluten bonds, weakening the dough (more on this later).
- Minimal Sweetness: Lactose, the sugar in milk, is the least sweet of all sugars. Even in relatively high amounts (over 5% in baker’s percentages), it has minimal impact on the dough’s sweetness.
Milk’s Effects Depend on Quantity
To achieve the effects described above, the amount of milk in the dough must be sufficient:
- Liquid Milk: Milk should make up at least 40% of the total liquids in the dough. For instance, if the recipe calls for 100 grams of water, you’ll need at least 40 grams of milk.
- Dried Milk Powder: Use at least 5% milk powder relative to the flour weight (in baker’s percentages).
If the milk content falls below these thresholds, its effects will be minimal or nonexistent. In such cases, adding milk is practically equivalent to adding water, but at a much higher cost.
In summary: To harness the benefits of milk in dough, ensure it constitutes at least 40% of the total liquids (for liquid milk), or 5% of the flour weight (for dried milk powder). Using less than these amounts will have little to no impact on the dough.
The Effect of Milk on Browning
Lactose, also known as milk sugar, is the only sugar that yeast does not metabolize. Since yeast doesn’t consume lactose, the entire amount added to the dough remains as residual sugar, which directly participates in the browning process.
As a result, adding lactose – whether from liquid milk or milk powder – can significantly affect the browning of the dough.
For lactose to influence browning, the following guidelines apply:
- Liquid Milk: Milk should make up at least 40% of the total liquids in the dough (as outlined in the previous section).
- Dried Milk Powder: Milk powder contains between 40% to 50% lactose, so even as little as 2-3% milk powder (based on baker’s percentage) can have an impact on browning.
The Effect of Milk on Gluten and Dough Strength
Adding milk to dough results in two “opposing” effects:
- Strengthening the Gluten: The calcium in milk helps tighten the gluten bonds, which leads to a stronger dough.
- Breaking Down and Weakening the Gluten: Milk contains about 20% whey protein, a mixture of proteins that includes glutathione, a dough softener that breaks down gluten bonds, resulting in a dough that is weaker and stickier.
When enough milk is added to the dough (as explained in the previous section), the effect of glutathione becomes more pronounced, counteracting the strengthening effect of the calcium. This results in a dough that is weaker, stickier and more extensible.
“Neutralizing” the Softening Effect of Milk on Dough
Glutathione is “neutralized” (denatured) at a temperature of 82°C (180°F).
Ultra-pasteurized milk is subjected to brief heating for several seconds at a temperature above 100°C (210°F) during its production, which is sufficient to neutralize the glutathione. In contrast, regular pasteurized milk is heated to 73°C (163°F).
As a result, ultra-pasteurized milk can be used without concerns about it softening the dough.
To avoid the softening effect of milk on the dough, you have two options:
- Use dried milk powder that has been heat-treated during production, often labeled as “baker’s grade dried milk powder.”
- Use ultra-pasteurized milk.
- Scald the milk to a temperature above 82°C (180°F), just until it starts to bubble. This will neutralize the glutathione, preventing it from softening the dough.
If you are using untreated milk powder, you can mix it with water to create “regular” liquid milk, then heat it as described above.
After scalding, allow the milk to cool before adding it to the dough.
In some cases, the softening effect of milk can be beneficial, especially if you want a more extensible dough. However, for pizza, it is generally recommended to avoid this softening effect.
How to Use Milk in Pizza Dough
Dried Milk Powder
When using milk powder, it should be sprinkled onto the flour rather than added directly to the water, especially if using cold water.
Depending on the specific milk powder product, adding it directly to cold water may cause lumps, which can be difficult to dissolve or separate later.
In summary: Milk powder should be sprinkled onto or mixed with the flour.
Liquid Milk
When using liquid milk, it is recommended to heat it to at least 82°C (180°F) to neutralize the softening effect of glutathione. After heating, let the milk cool before adding it to the dough as usual.
It’s also important to remember that liquid milk is approximately 90% water. Therefore, substituting milk for water will affect the dough’s hydration, as only 90% of the milk is liquid (water).
This may seem small, but it can significantly impact the dough. For instance, if the dough hydration is set at 60% water, using milk will result in a hydration level of about 54% (since only 90% of the milk is water: 60 * 0.9 = 54%).
As a general rule, when replacing water with liquid milk and aiming for a specific dough hydration, increase the hydration by 10% of the original amount (multiply the original hydration by 1.1).
For example, if the starting (water) hydration is 60%, increase it to 66% (60% * 1.1). This adjustment ensures that the water content from the milk is around 60% (66 * 0.9 = ~60%).
How to Convert Liquid Milk to Dry Milk Powder (and Vice Versa)
The following sections explain how to convert liquid milk to dry milk powder milk and vice versa.
Note: Converting liquid milk to milk powder is straightforward, but converting milk powder back to liquid milk requires adjusting both dough hydration and the original water content.
Converting Liquid Milk to Dry Milk Powder
If a recipe calls for liquid milk, you can substitute it with powdered milk as follows:
- Liquid milk is approximately 90% water and 10% milk solids.
- Powdered milk consists of 100% milk solids.
For every 100 grams of liquid milk:
- Use 10 grams of powdered milk (to match the 10% milk solids).
- Add 90 grams of water (to replace the 90% water content).
Summary: Replace liquid milk with 10% milk powder and 90% water by weight.
Examples:
- Original Recipe: 100 grams of liquid milk
Converted Recipe: 10 grams of milk powder + 90 grams of water - Original Recipe: 150 grams of liquid milk
Converted Recipe: 15 grams of milk powder + 135 grams of water - Original Recipe: 20% milk (in baker’s percentage)
Converted Recipe: 2% milk powder + 18% water
Converting Dried Milk Powder to Liquid Milk
This conversion requires careful adjustment of the original water amount in the recipe. When substituting milk powder for liquid milk, the additional water in the milk must be subtracted from the recipe’s water content to maintain proper hydration.
Milk powder makes up 10% of liquid milk (as liquid milk contains 10% milk solids).
To calculate the amount of liquid milk required:
- Multiply the amount of milk powder by 10.
Example Conversion:
If a recipe calls for 10 grams of milk powder:
- The equivalent liquid milk is 10 × 10 = 100 grams of liquid milk (containing 10 grams of milk solids and 90 grams of water).
Adjusting Water in the Recipe:
When substituting liquid milk for milk powder, adjust the recipe’s water amount to avoid increasing the dough’s hydration.
Example Recipe with Milk Powder:
- 200 grams of flour
- 5 grams of milk powder
- 120 grams of water
Hydration: 60% (120 grams of water ÷ 200 grams of flour).
After Converting to Liquid Milk:
- Use 50 grams of liquid milk (5 grams of milk solids + 45 grams of water).
- Adjust the water amount: Subtract 45 grams of water (from the milk) from the original 120 grams of water.
Final Adjusted Recipe:
- 200 grams of flour
- 50 grams of liquid milk
- 75 grams of water (120 – 45).
Hydration remains 60%:
- Total water = 75 grams of added water + 45 grams from the milk = 120 grams of water.
Why This Adjustment Matters:
If water adjustment is skipped, the recipe will exceed the intended hydration. For example:
- Without adjustment, the total water would be 120 grams of original water + 45 grams from the milk = 165 grams of water.
- New hydration: 82.5% (165 grams of water ÷ 200 grams of flour).
Proper adjustment ensures the hydration remains consistent with the original recipe.
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