Durum Wheat (Durum Flour): What Is It and Should You Use It in Pizza Dough?

Introduction: What is Durum Wheat

Durum wheat (Triticum durum) is a high-protein, gluten-rich variety of wheat, usually yellow in color, though some varieties are similar to regular wheat. There is also red durum, primarily used as fodder. The protein content in durum wheat typically ranges from 12% to 16%.

Milling durum wheat yields products that can be categorized into three main groups based on granularity (a classification also applicable to regular wheat milling products):

1. Coarse Semolina: Used primarily for making dried pasta.
2. Fine Semolina: Also known as “Rimacinata,” used commonly as bench flour and fresh pasta.
3. Durum Flour: Similar in granular size and texture to regular white flour, made from durum wheat.

What’s the Difference Between Durum Wheat and Common Wheat

The main difference between durum wheat (whether in flour or semolina) and common wheat lies in their gluten-forming proteins. Gluten from durum wheat is shorter and more elastic, creating a denser, more rigid, and elastic gluten network. This results in a tougher and chewier texture compared to that of common wheat.

The unique gluten structure of durum wheat makes it particularly suitable for pasta, as it provides the firm, chewy texture known as ‘al dente,’ ideal for pasta dishes.

The Effects of Durum Wheat on Texture and Flavor

Using durum wheat in dough (whether as flour or semolina) will have several effects on texture:

• The dough will become more elastic and resistant.
• The baked product will be tougher and chewier, especially when cooled.
• The crumb structure will be denser, more compact, and less airy.
• For very thin pizzas (cracker-style pizzas), coarse semolina can create a rough or gritty surface, which may give the impression of added crispiness.
• For pizzas of standard thickness (non-cracker style), semolina will not add crispiness.

“If you plan to use durum wheat in the dough, whether as flour or semolina, it’s best to limit it to no more than 25% of the total flour. Exceeding this amount can result in a crust that is excessively tough and leathery, which, upon cooling, may become as hard as a shoe sole, making it difficult to eat (though it might give your jaw muscles a good workout).

In terms of flavor, incorporating durum wheat into the dough will alter the aroma and flavor profile, imparting a distinct nutty and earthy taste. The intensity of this flavor will depend on the amount of durum used.

Additionally, the type of durum product used – whether flour, fine semolina, or coarse semolina – can affect both the dough’s behavior and the final texture. These effects are in addition to those previously mentioned.

The coarseness of the durum wheat product used can impact:

• Gluten Development: Coarser grains may physically cut gluten bonds, resulting in weaker dough.
• Water Absorption Capacity: Finer grains, with a higher amount of damaged starch, can absorb more water.
• Water Absorption Speed: Thinner grains absorb water faster due to a larger surface area-to-volume ratio. This refers to the speed of absorption, not the overall capacity, which is influenced by other factors.

If you plan to use durum wheat in pizza dough, it is recommended to use durum flour or fine semolina rather than coarse semolina. Coarse semolina requires an autolyse to fully absorb the water before kneading, which can make the dough feel coarse and grainy.

Is Semolina or Durum Flour More Resistant to Burning Than White Flour?

There is a misconception that durum wheat has a higher burning point than regular flour; This is not true, as there is no significant difference in the burning point of durum wheat and regular wheat (bread wheat). Both types of wheat will burn at the same temperature during baking.